Esh in Israel

I'd like to tell you this blog makes you the Robin to my Batman, along, in spirit, on a great quest against a furious, unnameable evil, but really, you're more the Larry Appleton to my Balki Bartokamous, there to laugh when I make idiotic cultural mistake after idiotic cultural mistake.

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Ani lomed bivrit bYerushalaim chodesh od.

(Translation, in my bad present tense verbs: I study Hebrew in Jerusalem another month.)

I'm back in the zone.

For the entirety of last week, including our first day of class, I felt listless, aimless; even once I recovered from the insanity of the move from Haifa to Jerusalem, I still had a hard time getting back into the zone of learning. I was less than present at our first day of class, and despite my declaring my intent to do homework all night, I opted to join a group going out instead. Friday, as it does, came and went in a flash, and suddenly, it was Shabbat.

As some of you know, part of observing Shabbat, halachackly (according to Jewish law), includes not writing; so, once Shabbat came in, all the homework I planned on getting done in preparation for Shabbat (including notecards I could flash through throughout the day) quickly got postponed. Then, I was so exhausted after Shabbat let out, I barely got an hour's homework completed before I was out until Sunday morning, until class started up again.

By the time class let out on Sunday, though, I was feeling the rhythm starting to creep in again; all the goals I set for myself were coming back to the surface, all the drive I had for the first week in Haifa was becoming a regular part of my life here. Despite having a new teacher that I felt is certainly a step down from my amazing teacher in Haifa, I've learned to accept the change, and to motivate myself to make up for any lack of learning during class by doing excess homework. I'm so ready to learn as much as I can, and I love it.

This all really raises the question - what motivates me? How can I internally feel the switch flip back, turning from an actual, internal interest in listlessness, I mean, really wanting to do very little, most of the day, to feeling so driven so as to do more homework than I've ever done in my life, spending five hours pounding Hebrew, mixing in an hour and a half at the gym, even studying during eating, so as to maximize my time. When I don't have active goals in my life, when I'm not focusing on those goals primarily, I think I really do fall back into a pattern of sloth; when I bring those goals to the forefront, though, not only do I avoid sloth, but I just don't have time for it. I'm so excited to have a packed day, to feel driven and motivated and ready ready ready.

On a side note, we had a meeting about the August session of ulpan, and because of the situation in Haifa, it looks like we'll be spending at least half, if not all, of August in Jerusalem. Yes, the living conditions aren't as nice, but I'm settling in a bit again, and frankly, I'd rather just not move again at all. A move disrupts my learning pattern so much, having to shift my focus so radically, I'd rather just stay here and keep cranking.

And in regards to safety, Jerusalem remains, surprisingly, one of the safest places to be in Israel. Figure that one out.

Friday, July 21, 2006

Some Headlines, Erev Shabbat

Normally I'd add my David-esque commentary, but I'm going to let you draw your own conclusions regarding bias, perspective, and intention based on the following headlines. These are all current front-page, above-the-fold main headlines from selected leading publications.

Haaretz (http://www.haaretz.com)

"Army preparing to call up thousands of reservists 10 hurt, one seriously, in Katyusha strike on Haifa"

Jerusalem Post (http://www.jpost.com)

"IDF calls up reserve division"
"At least 19 people wounded in Haifa rocket bombardment"

Al-Jazeera (http://english.aljazeera.net)

"
Hezbollah stands fast"

CNN (http://www.cnn.com)

"
Rockets rain down on Israel"

Fox News (http://www.foxnews.com)

"
New Rocket Attack on Haifa"

BBC (http://www.bbc.com)

"Israel tightens grip on Lebanon"

New York Times (http://www.nytimes.com)

"Israel Calls Up Reserves as Air Raids Continue in Lebanon"

LA Times (http://www.latimes.com)

"Frightened Residents Flee Chaos of South Lebanon"

Finally...

The Atlanta Journal-Constitution (http://www.ajc.com)

"Crash kills UGA basketball player"

I'm off to Shira Hadasha for Friday night services, then to Livnot U'Lehibanot for dinner and a night's stay.

Shabbat Shalom, everyone.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Skype information, part II, and the Shabbat I never had

Ok, right off the bat, I ordered a phone from Skype, so y'all can call me for free, if I'm around. Plus, it's local in Atlanta, so even if you've got one of those old-fashioned land lines, you can still call for free. CRAZY!

Tha digits:

(678) 389-9374

Would be great to hear from y'all, just remember that I'm 7 hours ahead.

Other news:

Looks like I'm going to move dorms tomorrow. I'm sorry I don't have the luxurious bathrooms at Haifa to compare it to, but here is the current situation at my dorms:



Mmm, who can guess what's growing here?




Oh yeah, that's sanitation for you.

On the plus side, I'm going to be moving in with Robert, my super awesome chevre from Livnot 158, who's currently studying spoken Arabic at Hebrew U. We'll be in an apartment-style setting, with two Israeli roommates (good for practicing the Ivrit). I'm very excited to get out of this dump and into a setting where I'm further away from all the distractions that Jerusalem has to offer. I've certainly noticed that getting back into the study mentality is harder here; at Haifa, we were so isolated, studying was a prime activity. Here, there are always 80 things to do, and buckling down to study becomes a tougher decision. That said, I'm working on it.

So, here's what I almost did for Shabbat.

Two days ago, I was on a tour at the amazing Israel museum when I received a phone call from Yonah David, all-around superstar at Livnot. He had a question for me: would I head up to Tzfat for the weekend to help with refugees, feeding and sheltering them? Wow, I was floored. Just as I was finding my emotional center again, I was faced with a really tough decision. I felt so motivated to go, on one hand; I knew I'd be helping some amazing families, would meet some special people, and would definitely have a Shabbat to remember. That said, going to Tzfat right now is, well, kind of crazy. It is still getting shelled. It is still in a war zone. And while the IDF walks around Tzfat in body armor, I'd have nothing of the sort. Plus, mom would kill me.

Hence, I decided not to go. I feel strangely selfish staying here this Shabbat; I feel like I backed out on an obligation I should have taken. That said, I need to realize that staying and going were both right decisions, for different reasons, and that either path had it's own wisdom. I'm sure that this Shabbat will be amazing for it's own reasons, and I'll definitely be thinking about those in Tzfat.

Finally, I got enrolled at the gym here, which definitely makes the Haifa gym looks like the weights that grampa showed you how to use in the garage when you were 12 and wanted to be buff. It's certainly built for a king; the facilities are spotless, the machinery all brand new, the staff really friendly, and the pool refreshing (or so it looks).

If only they'd spend some of that dough on the dorms they already have.

If I don't write before then, Shabbat Shalom everyone.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

A Situational Update

Heading off for the Israel Museum soon, but here's a quick update of my situation and THE situation:

My program was moved from Haifa to Jerusalem on Sunday afternoon, and since then we have been staying in dorms at the Hebrew University campus. We found out Monday night that the ulpan program would continue on the Hebrew U campus, and that we will have classes starting again Thursday morning. Additionally, we will be having slightly longer days and Friday class in order to make up the time lost because of all these shenanigans.

In the meantime, I've been enjoying Jerusalem. Yes, there was an attempted bombing near the Old City gates on Monday, but that attempt was thwarted, and there have been no more attempts since. Additionally, there have been armed guards again on city buses, with drivers more fervently checking for tickets. Besides that, the city is its normal mix of relaxed and uptight; certainly, we're all checking for news updates as often as possible (especially in regards to Haifa), but we're also trying to get out, get a sense of normalcy back in our lives. Certainly, sitting at a coffeeshop near Ben Yehuda and enjoying a Turkish Coffee while watching tourists skim by has been a helpful sense of emotional solace.

On the flipside, people seem confident about the situation here. While attacks still continue on both sides of the border, there is the feeling that Hezbollah is becoming desperate, especially since their internal infrastructure has been greatly disrupted. Additionally, the IDF seems especially confident that an end to the situation is in sight, which means we should hopefully be on the downside of this situation, rather than the front end of an escalation. It also seems like Syria and Iran are not interested in being any more involved than they already are, and the US doesn't seem to want to get involved either, which they'd almost have to do if Iran became a front-line player. With all that, we definitely all look forward to things calming down, and more importantly, ensuring the safety of the Jewish state.

Of course, now that people have calmed down, there most certainly will be the inevitable political backlash against Israel, as there always seems to be when we get involved in international conflict. Hopefully, though, Israelis can stay the united people they've been for the past week, and while disagreements may occur on the tactics taken by the IDF, everyone here can hopefully agree that maintaining the national safety must always be a primary objective.

Hope y'all are well, should have my skypeness set up soon.

-David

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Skype information, part I

I signed up for skype, so if you want to call and not pay the rates for my cell phone (and have a computer), you can connect computer-computer with skype, for free.

My login: david.riemenschneider

I'm probably going to register for a phone number, so you can call me when I'm in my room, around my computer. I'll also be able to make calls out for dirt cheap, so that's that.

Things are hopefully on the downward slope... still some missiles firing, but things seem to be quieting down. Just the fact that Olmert is using the term "ceasefire" in public is a good sign.

Monday, July 17, 2006

A short time to reflect

Strange as it may sound, but being in Jerusalem has already made me feel so, well, removed.

Honestly, I have no idea what Haifa, outside of the university, has been like since last Thursday night. I've been locked away in a little hyper-community, moving between buildings, shelter rooms, picnic tables, and the synagogue. Even on the drive down, we were herded onto buses, driven two and a half ours, and then herded back off, waiting over an hour to get our rooms settled, then another hour just to find out when to meet this morning.

But then, we were released.

I went into the city last night with Steve, Rachel, Joshua, Chaim, Robert (Livnot 158!), and Melanie (pics will come at some undisclosed point later, I assure). We ended up at Rimon Cafe, sitting down at a quarter to midnight (a perfectly reasonable time to eat in Jerusalem, as far as I can tell), and having a meal. I still felt so unsettled, though; my emotions were still locked up in our apartment's shelter room up in Haifa, but my body was free to roam Jerusalem as I pleased. And yes, we certainly heard people talking about what was going on, but their tone was so very removed from the situation; I felt so charged up about whatever was happening, and here were folks happening upon news when they could, but otherwise living their lives normally. I was so used to the thread of terror dictating the way I experienced my time, it was hard to return to "free time," to have time that no one, not rockets or Hezbollah or the University, could tell me what I had to do with it.

Looking back, I totally felt imprisoned; for a short while, our freedoms were mostly erased, and normalcy became a relative term. We spent hours locked into a metal room, making tasteless jokes about Katsyusha rockets attacking our backgammon game, if only to try to keep a humorous sense of perspective. We moved to and fro as if our regiment was programmed, not by rocket attacks, but by some all-seeing authority. I can only begin to imagine what cultural reintegration must feel like for soldiers, prisoners; to have your time dicated by something so foreign to most of the people around you, it draws you closer to those who shared the experience with you, pulls you away from the carelessness of day-to-day living, and in a sense, makes you miss the experience.

We all crave a sense of normalcy, and for a little while, I readjusted what my sense of normal was. I mentally prepared to live in-and-out of shelters for a month or two, not at all emotionally prepared to actually abandon the university campus. With a home, I could emotionally make due; now, feeling relatively homeless, I need to figure out where my place is, yet again.

Anyway, here's what you do with a camera when you're going crazy in a shelter room.





What's behind door #1?





Oh, it's an even bigger 4" thick iron door!





My roommate Lenny using the famous "duck and cover" technique using an air raid.





Hahahaha, false alarm!




Sunday, July 16, 2006

Safe in Jerusalem

Well, in my room at Hebrew U, which is definitely a big step down from my deluxe single-with-bathroom in Haifa, but I guess is better than nowhere. I don't have bedding, so I guess I'll have to go look for that stuff after dinner. It's really hard to think of this as anything more than a huge inconvenience, but at the moment, it's the only perspective I can take and still stay sane.

Hopefully Jerusalem will remain a safe place, and hopefully a safe return to Haifa is in the imminent future. I can only hope, because I don't have an alternate gameplan right now.

Anyway, I'll be on my phone all night, or drop me an e-mail. There is wireless in the room, which is really great.

Much love,

David

Evacuation.

Quick update...

In about an hour, we're loading buses bound for Jerusalem, as the Haifa U. campus has been closed for three days. We have lodging set up at Hebrew U's campus in J'town, and we'll be getting in there tonight.

If you haven't paid attention, Haifa was hit with about 25 rockets this morning, and 8 people were killed at a train depot. Hizbollah is threatening more attacks, with missiles possibly going as far as Tel Aviv. Hopefully Jerusalem will be a safe place, and hopefully Haifa will be returned to a safe city as well in the near future.

The ulpan program is on hold for the next three days, and then we will see what happens - we may continue the program in Jerusalem, or we might come back to Haifa, if the situation improves. Everything is day-to-day now, and unfortunately, it's hard to predict what a terrorist organization is going to do.

I'll try to post tonight that I've arrived safely, but please, feel free to call.

David

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Post-Shabbat, FYI

A quick update, before I buckle down for some studying.

The mood here is mixed - there is definitely a huge range of people, from those determined to stay, to those already gone. A lot of parental pressure has sent a handful of students packing their bags, but generally, there's definitely an "in-it-together" attitude, and most of us are sticking it out. There hasn't been an attack on Haifa since the initial attacks Thursday night, and despite threats, as the IDF and IAF take control of more of southern Lebanon, attacks on Haifa, being as far from the border as it is, seems less likely. This isn't to say that we're ruling out the possibility, of course, but we're all trying to deal with the situation.

Since I haven't addressed ulpan yet, I'll do so quickly. It's going "tov m'od," very good. I'm studying 2-4 hours a day, and in addition to the five hours of class, I'm totally squeezing a ton of information into a very small space: namely, my brain. I'm trying to stay ahead of the class, so that I can use class time to work on fluency and learning newer concepts, instead of struggling through vocab. I've definitely increased my vocab to around 300 words, which is awesome. I'm already noticing that I understand simple conversations, which is so huge... every new moment I understand something, I know that my time here is totally worth it, situation or no.

Anyway, life is going on... we hear warplanes flying up and down the coast, and we're all checking the news regularly. That said, people are going out, partying, doing the general 18-29 live young thing. I'll keep y'all posted, for sure.

Oh, and thanks for reading. I really appreciate all of your concern.

Friday, July 14, 2006

A Haifa update, for those concerned.

Well, as most of you may be aware, things in the north of Israel have started to get crazy, especially right along the Lebanese border. Here's an update:

Hezbollah kidnapped two IDF soldiers, which sparked retaliation from the Israeli side of things. Similar situations happened before, in 2000 and 2002, both ending with negotiation and exchange of prisoners. In this situation, though, Israel quickly struck back, and Olmert has already announced that he will be ruling out negotiation.

As far as a meeting held last night with a professor focusing on Israeli politics and military had to say, Israel will most likely attempt to completely wipe out Hezbollah. What does that mean? It means that things will most likely get worse before they get better. There will most likely be an aggressive ground attack into southern Lebanon and into Beirut, as well as air attacks on both military and "civilian" buildings, as rockets are held both in military locations as well as people's houses. Don't be surprised if the media starts talking about the IDF attacking "civilians," th0ugh, but we have to trust that Israel has no interest in killing innocent people, only people harboring weapons or officials using civilians as bodyguards and protection.

In addition, Hezbollah has warned that if Israel attacks Beirut, Hezbollah will retaliate against Haifa. Now, what does that mean for me? Well, it could be a lot of things. First, it could be an "empty" threat; Hezbollah may not have the ability to actually accurately attack Haifa. As far as the IDF knows, the Hezbollah only has a few hundred long-range missiles, none of which have highly accurate locating technology. Additionally, long-range missiles require advanced machinery, which means they are easier to locate and destroy, as opposed to short-range weaponry, which can be stored in people's homes, garages, cars, etc, and may only need to be launched from the shoulder.

So, we've been recommended to stay close to home. There are announcements over loudspeakers if situations changes (spent two hours in our apartment's bomb shelter yesterday, woo hoo!), so even in Shabbat we will be able to get information, if need be. Rocket attacks have slowed down this morning, so hopefully the IDF has already crippled Hezbollah's ability to attack. Looking forward, though, Haifa plans on opening business as usual Sunday morning after Shabbat, and the University will be completely open. My program has no plans of ending early or cancelling sessions, so we expect to continue as planned.

Just so you know, the university is doing more than necessary to protect us. Last night, we were warned to stay in our shelters last night, while outside the university, buses were running, bars were crowded, and businesses were open. If things get too risky, trust me, we will be the first ones out of here... the last thing the university, the IDF, and the Israeli government want are 250 tourists under attack.

I'm planning on staying here for the remainder of my program; yes, it's tense, but in a way, it's also exciting, interesting, and unbelievably alive. Being in such a crazy place raises one's awareness, one's interest, and creates an environment of sharing and communication. We are definitely interested in each others' safety, and the university is doing everything they can to insure our safety.

Feel free to call, if you like; I'll have my phone off for Shabbat, but I'll be available as of tomorrow night (tomorrow midday, US time), and into Sunday, as normal. I'll try to check e-mail more often than usual, just so I can get back to people in a timely manner. I appreciate all of your thoughts and prayers already, but please trust that we are all interested in making sure that Haifa remains a safe place to live and study.

Monday, July 10, 2006

University of Haifa, Talia Dorms, Room 633

I didn’t get Lucky Charms cereal growing up – too many marshmallows. This made me a day-to-day Cheerios man, with a side of Rice Krispies and Kix, and the occasional and much sought-after Honey Nut Cheerios, my personal favorite. No Count Chocula, BooBerries, Cap’n Crunch, Frosted Flakes, and most certainly, no Lucky Charms. How was I supposed to learn about diversity growing up, if not from my breakfast cereal? While I stared into bowls of ubiquitous uniformity every day, kids across the US (and wherever else General Mills has spread) were learning that yellow stars could live in harmony with green shamrocks, and just because there were more frosted cereal bits than all of the different kinds of marshmallows put together, there was an understanding that every piece was special in its own right, for its own reason. Sure, some Krispies were saying “Snap” while others “Pop,” but differences in dialect is hardly a basis for an upbringing focused on diversity. Cheerios, indeed.

So, I’ve arrived and settled in Haifa after doing a sherut (shared-taxi) double-switch (at the airport), managing to get picked up and dropped off door-to-door for less than it would have taken to go taxi-bus-taxi from Jerusalem direct to Haifa. I’ll best these Israeli systems yet.

Speaking of the sherut, it’s a fascinating thing. In Jerusalem, the only sherutim are available to take you to and from the airport. In Haifa, sherutim drive along the bus routes, picking up passengers who would rather ride in a smaller, more comfortable vehicle than the crowded, hot bus. FOR LESS MONEY. Now, yes, if you have a monthly or multi-ride pass, the bus does work out cheaper, but for base, ride-to-ride pricing, the sherut can’t be beat. So if you come to Haifa, look out for the yellow, red, and white mini-buses.

The dorms here are simply beautiful. From what all of my visitors have said, we certainly seem to have the best of it; I’ve posted some pictures from our living room and upstairs windows. There are six of us here, each with our own rooms and bedrooms, set up like a small, double-story apartment. Four of my roommates are 19, having just finished their freshmen years of college, and the other only showed up yesterday, and I’ve shared five words with him, so I really couldn’t tell you how old he is. Regardless, I feel old. I’m definitely the old man of the apartment. Luckily, Andrew, a Dartmouther (or a Dartdentist?), and I both have an interest in making the gym a regular part of our weekly regimen, so we’ve worked out a daily schedule that we’ll stick with each others’ help. The hardest part about going to the gym is motivation, so hopefully he’ll be a major kick in the pants in helping me get in shape, finally.

Also, I’ve met two other future Pardesniks, both named Joshua, oddly. We all spent a good bit of this last Shabbos together, trying to make something out of nothing (having only arrived Thursday, Shabbat plans were a bit hectic, as you might imagine), finding a small Shomer Shabbos community here with which to have lunch, prayer, and definitely great conversation. We’re also trying to set up a thrice-weekly minyan here, which will definitely be new to me, praying three mornings a week (especially at 7 am!). Joshua (since I don’t know their last names, and don’t have pictures for you, I’ll let you just assume which one I’m talking about) helped me lay tefillin yesterday for the first time, which was pretty special. He’s also going to be a big help in my getting to shul three times a week, getting myself out of bed instead of sleeping in, which I tend to prefer, historically.

So, I’m starting proper ulpan classes tomorrow morning, Andrew and I will be going to the gym, and I’ll be starting to daven more frequently. In coming to Israel, these were definitely three of my end-goals: speak passable Hebrew, establish an exercise regiment, and pray more regularly. And now, within two weeks of being in Israel, I’m starting on all three. Alas, I’m now faced with an intellectual impasse: if one lives by the motto, “No day like today to get started,” does one also have to concern oneself with burning out too quickly, overdoing it at first and ending up back where one started, or worse? I’m certainly worried about failure – I’m afraid that my Hebrew won’t improve enough, that I’ll somehow fall way behind my class, that my brain won’t ever switch over, and that I’ll be living out of a dictionary all year. I’m afraid that I’ll work out for a week, then take a couple days off, then a few, and then, like so many times before, end up wasting lazy time away, talking about how I just “don’t agree with exercise.” Mostly, though, I’m afraid davening won’t get any easier, that I’ll fail to find meaning in everyday prayer, that I’ll start to tie my frustration with davening to some overall frustration with Judaism, and I’ll end up resenting my own faith.

Now, do I think these things will happen? Overall, no. I think my Hebrew will improve, for sure, and I’m so ready to start learning, so eager to establish proficiency, that I know I’ll learn a ton, and I’m already thinking about doing weeknight ulpan during the school year, so I’ll have even more room for improvement as time goes on. Working out worries me a bit more, but Andrew is pretty dedicated, and with the routine schedule of our daily life here, I think we’ll be able to maintain a solid routine. Prayer, though, probably worries me more than anything.

So far, my “Jewish discovery” has been one of culture, law, and custom; I’ve always had a difficult time with prayer, so I’ve focused more on learning about how religious Judaism functions socially and customarily, using daily Jewish law and custom to integrate myself into a stronger Jewish identity and to work towards becoming a more giving, more caring person than I once felt I was. Prayer vexes me, though. I appreciate the obligation of prayer; I mean, I identify with fulfilling the mitzvot of prayer, maintaining a crucial part of the covenant made with Hashem at Sinai, stepping into a daily ritual of practice maintained over 2000 years, since the destruction of the second Temple. But where does it get me, really, besides out of bed at 7 am? Do I really feel a connection to Hashem when I lay tefillin and daven Shachrit, do I feel tied to my Jewish people, or do I, more appropriately, feel like a self-ostracized Jew in a basement synagogue, praying about things I can’t really identify with at an hour when all of my peers are asleep? If the latter is true, the question remains, why do it at all? Where is the meaning?

Until now, my Jewish path has been laid with a golden sheen of newness, discovery, gratification, and allure; I’ve really wanted to take on all of the practices that I’ve adopted, mostly because they had such a real, visceral effect on my demeanor and attitude, and, for different reasons each, gave new light and meaning to my life and drew me closer to my identity as part of the Jewish community as a whole. Prayer, though, is a difficult thing; in the Amidah, the standing prayer, you separate yourself from the community and try to establish communication with the divine, praying loudly enough that you (and supposedly Hashem) can hear, but not so loudly so as anyone else can understand your prayer. You’re alone with your thoughts and prayer, no longer even joining in the community of the rest of the prayer service, but creating a relationship with the divine, asking for peace and prosperity not with the community, but instead, for the community. Alone.

So, this really raises a question of, yes, faith. Part of why praying is challenging lies in the fact that my Hebrew is terrible, so while men so familiar with the service that they’ve written to memory nearly the entirety of the prayer, I struggle to even follow when others read aloud, not to mention reading passages aloud myself so as not to bring the service to a screeching halt. Also, and maybe more pertinent, I just don’t know how to communicate with the divine in this way; I relish seeing Hashem work so beautifully in day-to-day life, in the way people interact, in the curious structure of life humanity has created, but when faced with the whole responsibility of divine contact, I’m not even sure where to begin. Until now, Judaism has been a blessed path of wonder; now, I’m faced with a part of practice that, frankly, I just don’t want to do. But, I’m going to do it. I’ve taken on this much, and in everything I’ve found meaning; now comes the point where I need to find the faith to do a little more, to accept, with good faith, that several millennia of practice have yielded a custom rich with meaning on every front.

So, for now, prayer wakes me up at 7 am, when I’d otherwise be sleeping. Prayer is getting me to bed a little bit earlier. Prayer is putting me a on a regular schedule, when I might otherwise be staying up late and waking up groggy. So, for now, this is what prayer is. While I hope that prayer will become more spiritual, more meaningful as my skills and knowledge development, for now, prayer gets me out of bed in the morning, and for now, that’s enough.

Here are some pictures of Jerusalem, taken from an amazing overlook, followed by some shots from my apartment/dorm in Haifa.

As always, your comments are more than welcome, both on here or via e-mail. I’d love to hear from all of you, and I miss you dearly.




Looking down on the Old City in Yerushalaim.



More Old City.



View from my dorm's window, downstairs.



View from my dorm's window, upstairs.

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

Yerushalaim, Livnot U'Lehibanot campus

I slept in today, up late last night watching Germany lose a heartbreaker in the 119th minute to Italy in the World Cup semifinals, eating pizza measured by the meter and helping my friend Ben finish off his Scotch collection before heading over to the States. So I woke up late, checked up on the home news, and found that 4th of July fireworks were rained out in Atlanta. There were no fireworks here yesterday, but no rain, either.

A short recap:

I had two really great days in New York. I stayed at Sean’s swank one-bedroom in Brooklyn, only feet from just about anything you’d ever need. This place has “prime location” written all over it. We chilled out at home last Monday night (last Monday, already?), had some friends over, enjoyed the stagnant heat that only a second-story Brooklyn apartment at the end of June can bring. Tuesday, I met up with Scammell and tried to do some shopping, hitting up a couple great sales, but ending up realizing that the great myth of greatness built up around H&M is a complete farce. Cheap, yes, good, no. Again, more friends, this time in Manhattan. Luckily, Sean was great enough to do almost all of the organizing for the two days, which really left me to focus on where I was headed.

So, on Monday night, several people, as expected, questioned me about my choice of path. For some reason, though, I was stunned. I realized, suddenly, that I hadn’t had to explain myself for some time; I was so surrounded by people who understood, intrinsically, this kind of experience; explaining my choice amounted less to why I was going, and generally more when I was going. Now, though, faced with questions regarding my motives, my goals, I needed answers more lucid and concrete than the responses I was used to giving.

In the end, though, I came to the conclusion that this was not only about my path to meaning, but more specifically, my desire to identify as part of a whole. Throughout my young adulthood, I tried whole-heartedly tried identifying as part of groups – hippies, Burners, indie kids, computer nerds; each group certainly had aspects I found fascinating, but after awhile, the awe I found in discovering a new group, a new way of living, grew tired. Once I exhausted the discovery of a new way, I became weary with the day-to-day reality of that way of living, so I moved on, looking for more satisfaction, more learning of a way. Just when I’d start to really identify, I’d run out of discovery, and lose the will to identify with that group altogether. And from there, I’d look for something new, drop the identity I’d started to acquire and seek out a new group.

Hence, the final discovery of Jewish ways and Jewish living. So, the question remains – why won’t I tire of this path? Why won’t I start to identify, only hitting a roadblock in the end, feeding my frustration even more? I’m not sure, entirely, but something about Jewish learning feels more authentic, more long-lasting. Perhaps the difference lies in the emphasis in learning; where more idealistic paths may lead to “a way,” Judaism only uses “a way” as a starting point. One first masters the path dictated by the mitzvot, but only in learning those mitzvot can one start to deconstruct the implicit meaning behind them. Where with other paths, the discovery lies in finding the path itself, in Judaism, it’s only once you’ve found the path that the true learning begins.

Overall, I guess I’ve tired of over-arching, simplistic, idealistic sub-cultures; it’s a beautiful thing to think that one can escape the reality of the world and wrap yourself in the cloak of idealism, but tucked away, what real learning can you really accomplish? Having tried on that cloak myself, several times, I’ve definitely shed it; now, as attractive as hiding away may seem, it’s only through a wide-open, participatory lens that one can truly expose the hidden meanings behind culture. In that context, I certainly respect more isolated sects of Judaism; certainly, I’m sure the Hasids of Meia Sharim and Brooklyn have beautiful views on Torah and the workings of Hashem in this world. Perhaps it’s a bit of cynicism, a bit of self-loathing, but I’d feel fraudulent hiding away in a wholly isolated community; I need to work on the balance between a religious life and a secular life, a path of learning rooted in cultural interpretation and integration, rather than learning focused on isolation.

So, by the day, I’m even more happy I chose Pardes; in Atlanta, surrounded with Pardes alumni, it’s easy to see that as the obvious choice for learning, but here, there are so many different places and different ways to study, it’s easy to get overwhelmed with the choices. I’m sure I’ll do some studying at other places, but I’m still so excited that Pardes will be my home base, my community focused on the learning and cultural integration that I find so satisfying.

And so, an even quicker recap:

Arrived in Jerusalem last Thursday, then headed out to a moshav (basically, a small community, half settlement and half suburb) outside of Beit Shemesh, south of Jerusalem. Robert, one of my chevre from my first trip to Israel, is studying at Hebrew University for the summer, so he and I headed out together. We spent the weekend with Yonah David, an amazing guy and Livnot staffer, and his beautiful family, including two really beautiful children (one of whom, the one-year-old, who started crying the moment either Robert or I even looked in his direction). I came back to Jerusalem on Sunday, and spent the past week hanging out here; on Monday, I spent half a day studying at Pardes, and yesterday I spent some time downtown on Ben Yehuda before checking out the Israel Museum (which is simply gigantic). Tomorrow I leave for Haifa, to finally settle down.

Speaking of which, here’s a bit of an aside thought. I’ve been struggling with the get-up-and-go mentality that I’ve had so often when traveling, but which I seem to be lacking on this trip. It’s not the fact that I have an unsightly amount of stuff with me; from the mound of books to the kitchen knives, I tried to pack as much of my life with me as I could. In a sense, I came here with a mentality focused on settling rather than moving, a desire to dig my heels in rather than avoid even touching the ground. I’m sure there are those that know how to navigate quickly between the two, but I’m yet to figure it out. At least tomorrow afternoon I can fully unpack and do some laundry.

By the way, I apologize for my writing skills ending up a bit rusty; it’s been too long since I wrote, and my abilities are definitely the worse for wear. I feel I used to raise an idea like a child, starting it small and fragile, integrating it with outside influences through its adolescence, and finally leaving it a self-sufficient adult. Now the best I seem to manage is some amalgamated, lab-created beast, made up of strange parts that only sort of fit together. So, bear with me, hopefully it’ll come back together.

Here are some pictures from New York and Jerusalem, mostly time out with different friends. I’m going to head out later today to a spot famous for it’s vistas of Jerusalem, which might help explain how this city is put together (which I’m still trying to figure out, myself). I’ll also try to better document my day-to-day life and goings-on; I’m still so unused to having a digital camera with me all the time that I forget to take it out and just shoot everywhere. I’ll get the hang of it, for sure, though.




Scammell and Becky.



Becky and Sean.



Me and Becky.


Yevgeny and Me



Sean.



Becky.



Scammell.



Another red-bearded David from Livnot.



Yummy dessert, part I.



Chocolate ravioli, yummy dessert II.



Dawn (Livnoter) and Ben (Pardesnik).



Jeremy, currently studying at Pardes, and formerly one of my chevre from my Livnot group of last summer.



Ben, again.



Me and Rachel (currently at Pardes, Atlantan in the house).